In recent years, Yohji Yamamoto has communicated a version of the same message through his spring collections: the earth becomes hotter and men can be wise to consider how they can dress for this. Nowadays, because most guests looked extra week and with everyone who was still surprised about the flood of last night, it was as if the oracular designer had the right to say, “I told you.”
Instead, he approached this outing with a completely arsenal of intellectual, beautiful and practical clothing that is not only designed light and breathable; They were treated in Surefire Conversation Starters about the state of the world.
Each Yohji show unfolds in different chapters, and it started with drawing our attention in the ways in which weightless and informal shirts with short sleeves and loose pants can look polished, somewhat jazz-like. But this was just a restrained prologue for what followed: unstructured layers in a seductive riff on pajama dressing and Grunge explored that church and science as graphics. Think of: stained glass windows and tracery motifs together with underwater organisms. Both came from standard Yohji Black, as if he were lit by an indirect light source. At the same time there were countless Sans serif statements about nuclear war, oceans, microplastics, love, hydrogen ions and a personal favorite, a nod to Byron with: “She walks in beauty.”
The lively glass -in -shood glasses and more modest tracery patterns that looked like collages were a kind of divine intervention. There was a broader message here, such as: “People are able to build extraordinary things and explore Terra Incognita, but we are sabotaging as kind.
Other chapters were Loungey handists of juxtap positions -a dark striped cardigan worn under a white cotton pajamas set; a series of semi-scruckle pieces that were accessorized with eclectic and lush clusters of chains, brooches and even ankle straps such as a dressed nomadic look; And finally some spacious suits and two jumpsuits – the last look with a stained glass fragment of what looked like a heart shape. Everywhere there were slimmer versions of that amphibian city sandal genre or otherwise different classic sandal iterations that accentuated the relaxed attitude.
The music exchanged instrumental songs with an outlaw streak and yamamotos tender covers of “endless love”, “what a wonderful world” and “do you still want to love me tomorrow?” That led to guests through the room to mouth.
After he had taken his bow, hat in his hand, Yamamoto brought out politicians for their inactivity, “otherwise the earth will end so quickly.” He didn’t have to be; This was already a creative CRI de Cœur who felt special to witness – and will certainly be to wear.