Skin barrier health will be big in 2024. Beauty

It’s rare to find skin care advice that suits everyone, but in the dermatological world there is an exception: strong skin is healthy skin. Whatever your skin color or unique concerns, “a strong skin barrier is the most important factor [in maintaining skin health],” say John “Jay” Wofford, MDa board-certified dermatologist with American Dermatology Partners. And in 2024 the beauty Industry will provide the tools we have all to achieve exactly that.

Your skin barrier is made up of lipids and cells and serves as the first line of defense against the elements. It is responsible for keeping out bad things, like pollution and bacteria, while trapping good things, like moisture. If the skin barrier is functioning properly, your skin will likely be hydrated and healthy; if it is compromised, you become vulnerable to a whole host of concerns. Severe barrier problems can lead to skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea, but even minimal barrier disruption can lead to dryness, irritation, inflammation and acne.

“Barrier health has always been a concern for dermatologists, but most people thought it was only important if you had rosacea, sensitive skin or eczema,” says David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York. But that’s not the case, he says: Even people who do not have an underlying medical condition can inadvertently weaken their skin barrier. “It can affect anyone in the general population because when the barrier is disrupted, moisture escapes and the skin begins to become dry and cracked, allowing irritants and bacteria to enter the skin and cause inflammation,” he says.

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With each passing year, our society becomes more and more focused on skin health

John Wofford, MD

Experts consider the increased general attention to skin health as a major reason why skin health will be so popular in the coming year. “Each year that passes, our society becomes more and more focused on skin health,” says Dr. Wofford, noting that this phenomenon is beginning to spread during the 2020 lockdown. “It used to be that the general population probably didn’t really want to hear about the skin barrier and the physiology of how the skin works, but now that they’re so much more focused on skin health, they want to understand what’s going on. So companies are becoming more scientific about what they talk about, to make their products more targeted and give consumers what they want.”

The skin barrier trend has been making inroads in recent years. Early 2022, #skinbarrier had 300 million views on TikToknow it has more than 5.7 billion; searches for “skin barrier” increased by 51 percent during the same period; and model Hailey Bieber launched her skincare line Rhode in 2022 with a Barrier Restore Cream ($29). But in 2024, health barriers are moving closer to the forefront because it’s no longer a need – it’s a necessity.

Research has shown that the prevalence of atopic dermatitis – a form of eczema characterized by an extremely weakened skin barrier and affecting 2 to 10 percent of adults in developed countries – has doubled to tripled in recent decades, and there are a number of different factors that come into play to explain why. A 2023 empirical review states that the extreme temperature fluctuations caused by the climate crisis are the guilty ones. Other research has shown that low temperatures and low humidity lead to general decrease in barrier function. “As global warming worsens and we experience more severe weather fluctuations and more exposure to UV rays, you need to replenish the skin with the right products so it can adapt to the environment,” says Dr. Kim.

In addition to environmental factors that cause serious barrier disruption, dermatologists attribute a number of everyday skin barrier health concerns (think dryness, flaking, irritation, and acne) to what people do in their routines. “People are using more active ingredients and their skin barriers are being compromised,” says Dr. Kim, noting that the improper use of harsh actives such as retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids can damage the skin, weaken its barrier and cause sensitivities. . “Now, [people are] looking for ways to absorb actives while keeping the barrier strong so it doesn’t become irritated.” (This goes a long way to explaining why niacinamide—a gentle antioxidant that brightens skin, evens out discoloration and fights acne without irritation—is popping up everywhere recently.)

Fortunately, taking care of your skin barrier is quite simple. Ceramides, glycerin and fatty acids have long been considered the ‘big three’ for repairing the skin barrier (and have traditionally been key ingredients in lotions and other products from industry heavyweights like Cerave and Cetaphil). Soothing ingredients such as Centella Asiatica and colloidal oatmeal are often added to soothe irritated skin. But while skin-strengthening solutions haven’t changed in the last forty years (since ceramides entered the cosmetic lexicon), the way they’re delivered (and marketed) to consumers has.

Barrier-building ingredients were once exclusively available in thick creams meant to treat dry skin, but now they’re making their way into lighter products that are better suited for strengthening the skin barrier for oily and acne-prone skin. In October, Paula’s Choice launched the Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer ($38), which stimulates the skin’s natural production of ceramides to strengthen the barrier and enable better moisture retention; RoC introduced its Barrier Renew Essentials Collection ($50), which includes lightweight am and pm moisturizers, as well as a gel-to-foam cleanser, all of which are packed with ceramides; Murad has launched a Cellular Hydration Repair Serum ($72) that’s infused with peptides and fatty acids to boost your body’s natural production of ceramides, strengthening the skin barrier within 30 minutes of application. A month earlier, Payot launched an Adaptogenic Spray Moisturizer ($44) infused with antioxidants to protect against environmental impacts on skin barrier health. At the end of this month, Drunk Elephant will release its Bora Bora Barrier Repair Cream, which promotes the natural production of skin-strengthening lipids; and in early 2024, Saint Jane will enter the barrier care category with its new Beauty Star Flower Serum, which encapsulates niacinamide in microbead bubbles that burst as they penetrate the skin, delivering strengthening benefits from within.

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And for those dealing with more serious underlying barrier issues, such as eczema and rosacea, treating symptoms at home has never been easier.

Body care also gets a barrier-friendly upgrade. Marie Veronique, Cyklar, REN and PerriconeMD all launched barrier-targeted body products in the second half of this year. And at the top of 2023, Dove introduced its Shower collection for skin conditionswith three body washes designed to target eczema-prone, dry-cracked and hyper-reactive skin. Looking ahead to the coming months, Evolved by nature will launch a body wash that uses the brand’s patented silk active ingredient to support the skin’s natural production Claudinsa protein that holds barrier cells together to keep moisture in and irritants out.

And for those dealing with more serious underlying barrier issues, like eczema and rosacea, treating symptoms at home has never been easier (although you’ll still want to consult a dermatologist for the best course of action for your individual needs). In the past year, both drugstores and luxury brands, including No. 7, Olay, Murad, Typology and Alpyn Beauty have all introduced products that address these issues, and in November a new brand called Re/Cover hit the market with moisturizing patches that treat eczema flare-ups in the same way they treat eczema flare-ups. A new eczema drug from Lilly is being mentioned in the dermatological world lebrikizumab has shown promise in clinical trials in strengthening the skin barrier (it works by blocking the proteins that activate the inflammatory loop in the skin to prevent barrier dysfunction, itching, and infection), and could be available by prescription as soon as next year.

By 2024, strength training will make our skin so central to our routines that many of us won’t even realize we’re doing it, but our skin will be all the better for it.

Buy skin barrier products

Rhode Skin Barrier Repair Cream – $29

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Paula’s Choice Barrier Repair Advanced Moisturizer – $38

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RoC Barrier Renew Essentials – $88

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Murad Cellular Hydration Barrier Repair Serum – $72

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Payot Adaptogen Spray Moisturizer – $44

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Evolved by Nature Body Wash – $29

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