The Blockbuster inaugural exhibition by Nick Cave has recently closed, the new Jack Shainman Gallery in Lafayette Street in Tribeca played today hosting the autumn show of Ralph Lauren. Outside, a crowd of curious spectators was collected to catch a glimpse of Anne Hathaway, Naomi Watts and Michelle Williams. Inside, guests were impressed by the Beaux Art beauty of the former headquarters of the New York Life Insurancy Building, the 29-foot high-formed caprefeul in particular.
The setting was photo perfect for the new Lauren collection. The jabot-neck-white shirt of the Dandy, often interrupted by a jewelry brooch, was the star of the show, which spread a black sweater in pleated pants or worn out under the evening coats and riding jackets with a single borr. A black lace Jabot decorated a rather sensational ivory Panné velvet dumbbell dress, which also had a dramatic rear detail.
Due to Lauren’s preference for off-Schedule shows, they are treated as events. In the Hamptons last September, for example, we not only saw his characteristic line, but also Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren – against men, women and children. Although he was talking about tensions and dichotomies in his notes today-“playing male and female and robust-en-refined”-this was a single message collection with a clear point of view and more convincing for it. He called it ‘the modern romantics’.
Romantic fringes are currently in the air. For Lauren, however, it is a return to shape. His advertisements from the eighties and from the 90s have become frequent sights on the mood signs of young designers, and he made a compelling matter to quote himself, without aiming nostalgia. It is a safe gamble that more than one young woman still thinks about velvet jackets and soft Victorian blouses and how well they can look together. Others can be tempted to put their full legs in knee -high hielles in knee -high Hielles.
For the evening, Lauren often strengthens the glamor – at more than once the dress codes in his show has called for black tie (for guests, that is,). Here he exchanged beads and sequins for Bohemian layers of ruffles and belt jackets over pleated Chiffon Maxi skirts. The broken white white taffeta shirt with lace inserts that Mona Tougaard wore at the end of the show looked like it would fit at Kacey Musgraves, who was also in the front row in a hat of ten gallon and tank top.
A spiny sweater with a beaded flower detail with black pants was a completely different idea for a special evening out. The comments indicated that it was a riff on something that was worn by the model Clotilde Holby in a Lauren campaign from the 80s. Google her name and it dives up immediately – the sweetest choruses.