What is this, Marques’Almeida Going Glam? All long, diral, leopard-spot evening looks in their autumn pre-collection, certainly read that way. It is a bit of a surprise from designers who are not known to use many prints. During a zoom call from their studio in Portugal, they explained that they had the feeling of challenging themselves: “We wanted to be in new, more mature, perhaps more elegant territory,” said Marta Marques, “while still possessing what makes us.”
Well, there are plenty of things in this collection to choose from as a beautiful, dressed eveningwear-not only the long, slim, trail-you animal print skirts but also pouf-back taffeta dresses that seem to nod to haute couture volumes from the 1950s. “It is an event dressing,” but for us, “Int. Inmeida” was “grown in.” “”
Before that he pointed to the troubled deluxe contradiction that is inherent in the grated texture of the Fil Coupé fabric that also runs through the collection. Fil Coupé is a weaving technique that is more often associated with expensive couture; Here, Marques and Almeida have used rough texture to give presence to what they call pajamas and add a Heksy mysticism to a black dumbbell dress that is photographed with the train that flies.
Somehow, that is that chatting with the goth-y atmosphere on the rise of many corners and holes in this dystopian era. It belongs to corsets and bras such as outerwear, which are shown here in the material marten’almeida, has long owned: Denim, linked to the iterations of this season of his boyfriend Jeans.