There was an orange semicircle at the end of Kris Goyri’s runway. Out came the first look: a blue bandeau-style top attached with a metal circle to a deconstructed skirt composed of two layers, with the top made of a heavier orange fabric and the bottom a purple gauzy pleated skirt. “I’ve thought about staring at the sun and seeing how the colors around it change, how the birds that pass by become mystical creatures against the light. And it is a very unique moment,” the designer said backstage. Goyri has been chasing sunsets on the coast of Oaxaca for a few months. Spring contained all his signature elements; pleated silk in bohemian dresses, and rows of fabric-covered buttons used on the side of waistbands or at the back to complete flowing dresses, while also exploring tailoring with an abstract and fun angle.
The designer’s version of an ideal panoramic view is interpreted in a classical way; birds flying through the sky appeared as decorations on mini tube dresses and corset tops, with the sun reflecting on a deep orange sea being interpreted quite literally on a matching set; or the phases of the moon appearing on a series of jumpsuits. Elsewhere, chunky pieces formed the basis for the designer’s idyllic vista; such as a brown sheer dress with wide sleeves and a 60s A-line mini dress.
But Goyri didn’t lose sight of the more everyday wearable pieces, such as an asymmetrical top paired with a skirt with two slits, or a skirt suit with a geometric pattern. “Ultimately, I want the collection to be a celebration of life, of longing for those happy moments in the ’90s.” He certainly brought his zest for life.