When this reviewer learns that the conceptual principles for Elie Saab’s spring collection were “the sultry African sky” and “sun-drenched savannah days under an endless blue sky,” as this season’s show notes read, he will admit that they are bracing themselves for what was to come. After all, while ‘safari chic’ is well-established in today’s fashion vernacular – most recently and memorably revived in Anthony Vaccarello’s spring collection for Saint Laurent last year – its contemporary connotation in 2024 isn’t too chic.
Fortunately, what Saab showed today at the Palais de Tokyo managed to sidestep the colonial nostalgia that many designers exploring similar territory have previously, perhaps unintentionally, evoked. Instead of romanticized visions of the characters you associate with the intrepid ‘exploration’ of the African continent, the Lebanese designer’s heart-wrenching imagination here drew on the richness of the countless sublime landscapes.
OK, there were some riffs on safari suits – like roomy linen separates or flowing crepe jumpsuits with rolled-up sleeves – but instead of the standard khaki, they were the shades of fireball lilies, elephant gray and the ocher dust blown across West Africa by the Harmattan – gusts of wind. Raffia pieces were particularly striking, with the plant fibers delicately woven into low-slung skirts and mini dresses with long sleeves, slight bubble hems and fern embroidery on floor-grazing tulle dresses.
Of course, given the source material, animalistic touches were inevitable – and in fact, Saab would have been remiss not to lean towards this. Military jackets, long chiffon dresses and fitted Saharienne coats were adorned with textured micro-leopard prints, though their potentially brash effect was muted, resembling a sultry purr rather than a campy roar.
Foliage also served as a key motif throughout, with lush rainforests lending their color palette to everything from structured belted pantsuits to wind-catching cape dresses. The most dazzling translations, however, came via decadent emerald green palm-leaf embroidery on a series of chiffon glove evening gowns. While you could argue that this section could have been made smaller, judging by the amount of rhinestone evening looks spotted in the front row, the dresses will quickly find their way into wardrobes once they arrive in stores.